Virgin Voyages First Alaska Sailing Review – Stunning And Successful

4.5/5

Virgin Voyages begins their very first Alaskan season with some very successful approaches.

• Different sorts of entertainment and enrichment activities on the ship.
• Shore excursions were made a little extra special by Virgin’s Shore Things teams.
• Small touches and new approaches make a big difference from other Virgin Sailings and other cruise lines in Alaska.

Could Virgin Voyages Pull Off Alaska?

The Alaskan cruise market is one of the most competitive, in demand, and saturated areas in cruising. When Virgin Voyages announced that they would be delaying the launch of their fourth ship, the Brilliant Lady, to modify it to be able to traverse the Panama Canal, they also said that they would be sailing in Alaska. Fans of the line were immediately excited, yet many remained trepidatious that Virgin, who built their ships for the balmy warmth of the Caribbean and Mediterranean, would handle the colder Alaskan climates well.

Could a line that throws a party like this, ever fit in up in Alaska?

Many pointed out that Virgin’s pools were open air, that Richard’s Rooftop (the small part of the ship reserved exclusively to suite guests) was also exposed to the elements. Virgin Voyage’s famous balcony hammocks were feared to be useless in the Alaskan weather, mostly because of the brisk temperatures. Speculation swirled around what the line could possibly do to stand out in a market swelling with other options. Is it possible to offer something no other line has offered when there are already more than 800 Alaskan sailings each year? Well, I went to find out.

One last thing before we dive in, this is a review. That means that even though we are travel agents, when we took this sailing it was at full price and there were no special benefits that we received. That means that what we experienced was the same that anyone could experience.

Expectations

I’d sailed Virgin Voyages six times before stepping onboard their inaugural Alaskan sailing, including once before on the Brilliant Lady. I’m well familiar with what the line offers. I also want to be clear about what I mean when I say inaugural, since Virgin has muddied the water somewhat. I sailed on an itinerary from Vancouver, B.C. to Seattle, WA and that itinerary was the first time Virgin Voyages sailed Alaska, it was not the “Mer-Maiden” Voyage though, that was actually the voyage after mine. Their rationale for this was because the “Mer-Maiden” was the first time they sailed from their home port of Seattle.

The Mer-Maiden was the next sailing after the one I took. So, I was on the first Alaskan voyage for the line, just not the big flashy one.

When crews have never sailed to a region before, it can be a bit of a shakedown voyage. The staff have new menus catered to the region, that means different drinks to concoct, new dishes to prep, and new suppliers and supplies to work with. The crew are also getting used to the behavior of guests in the new region, such as when sailors are leaving their rooms so the house keeping staff can clean up and what activities are popular. Virgin Voyages has a very good reputation for guest service and food quality on their ships, so there’s pressure to perform here.

All in all, my expectations were high, since I’ve had many nice voyages on Virgin, but I was prepared for some hiccups.

The Brilliant Lady Is Different

Since not everyone is up to speed on Virgin Voyages, their ships, and their reputation, it’s worth a quick rundown.

• Virgin has four ships, The Scarlet Lady, Valiant Lady, Resilient Lady, and Brilliant Lady. The Brilliant is the most recent addition.
• They’ve got a reputation for great food and drinks.
• Their ships were designed with warm weather in mind – they’ve got balcony hammocks, lots of areas to lay in the sun, and tons of open-air spaces.

The last point has been a significant concern for some sailors thinking about taking Virgin Voyages Alaska.

Virgin Voyages was either thinking ahead or listening to feedback from sailors about concerns with the ship in Alaska. When the Brilliant Lady was delayed, Virgin not only modified the lifeboat mounting to become Panama Canal compliant, they also took the time to make some changes to their outdoor areas.

At the aft on deck 7, at The Dock, the outdoor chairs on The Brilliant Lady have been improved when compared to their counterparts on the other Lady Ships. As many people have noted and commented on, the original wooden deck chairs are extremely heavy, low to the ground, and generally not very comfortable to sit in. The chairs at The Dock on the Brilliant are much more comfortable and easier to sit in. This means better viewing of the gorgeous Alaskan vistas.

On deck 15, the two pools are heated, unlike the other three Virgin ships. They weren’t what many would call warm, but they were comfortable. We, and several others we became friends with, all went in the pool and thought it was quite nice but colder than when in the Caribbean. I’d guess the water temperature was around 70-75˚F (21-24˚C). There also wasn’t anyone really using the pool, so it wasn’t crowded. The folks that we were with were quite happy with the experience. The hot tubs were still hot, just so we’re clear that they are there.

Virgin swapped out some of the towels on deck for blankets. A welcome change and something that I wasn’t expecting them to do.

There were some, online, bemoaning that the pools weren’t enclosed, which is true. Whether that matters to you isn’t for me to say, but it didn’t dissipate my enjoyment. For what it’s worth, in my experience, Alaska isn’t the kind of place you go to enjoy a pool, even on a cruise. Most excursions involve being outside, many involve hiking, and almost all the ports are inside a literal rain forest, so being wet outside isn’t exactly a novel feeling in The Last Frontier.

One deck up, on 16, at the Athletic Club, the Brilliant Lady was updated to have the day bed lounging face outward and for the outer railing to be glass. As I write, the Valiant Lady is being updated to an identical configuration of the day beds on the Brilliant, but the other two ships face inward. Appreciating Hubbard glacier from this space was very easy and relaxed.

At every outdoor area, Virgin Voyages swapped out the stacks of towels for stacks of blankets. Although having outdoor blankets is hardly unique to Virgin, Princess offers blankets for their Movies Under the Stars, it’s something that I’ve not found on some lines in Alaska. Sailing Regent Seven Seas last year in Alaska, for example, they did not offer blankets on the open-air areas. On Virgin Voyages, I spent an hour or so lying comfortably under a blanket by the pool on one of the lounge chairs, it was quite enjoyable.

Cuisine

Virgin Voyages’ eateries are all what the cruise industry has come to call “premium restaurants.” This means that Virgin’s ships have no Main Dining Room, unlike many other cruises. Instead, you’ll eat at one of these dedicated and culinarily themed establishments each night. This has led some repeat customers to complain about the mostly static menus. Fortunately, Virgin has been listening here as well.

In the last year, each of the dining establishments on the ships have added limited time specials in addition to their standard menu. I always take the kitchen up on their short-term offerings and have never been disappointed. Virgin has gone a step further for their Alaskan sailings, though, by offering specific regional dishes on some of their menus.

Of the Alaskan exclusives, my personal favorite was the venison loin at the wake. I’m from a state where our schools and communities actually shut down for the start of deer season. Venison is a staple in our diets and I’ve eaten it my whole life. I can say with certainty that Virgin’s preparation was close to the best I’ve ever tasted. If you like fish, I also wouldn’t miss the roasted cod at Rojo. When I reviewed Rojo last year, I said it was the best of Virgin’s restaurants; their cod only reinforces the skill of that kitchen.

The venison at The Wake was astounding! One of my favorite dishes that Virgin has ever made and an excellent preparation even when compared to restaurants on land.

There are also limited items at the bars. Should you be inclined to partake of some alcohol on your sailing, Virgin has brought a cask of mulled wine aboard! Okay, so I don’t know if they actually have a cask, but they are offering the spiced drink. They also added a Hot Toddy to the drink list. The classic bourbon beverage happens to be one of my favorite cold weather drinks and I thought that they made theirs quite well. Virgin has always used higher quality alcohol than other lines in their cocktails, and they continue to do so with the these beverages.

Virgin Voyages’ Alaskan sailings feature additions to the coffee bars as well. At the Grounds Clubs, the ship’s cafés, I found two limited time espresso drinks, the Salty Sea Otter and the Denali Late. The former is a salted caramel and mocha brew, and the latter is a birch syrup infused latte. Both were delicious, although if you prefer a less sweet coffee, I recommend the Sea Otter as the Denali tended to be slightly more saccharine. That being said, it’s not often you get the chance to have birch syrup, so I would suggest trying it at least once because the taste is unique.

Events and Experiences

I’ve taken quite a few cruises and Virgin Voyages offers what, I think, to be the best entertainment, activities, and events of any line. I made my feelings clear some time back now and it hasn’t changed since then. The new shows on the Brilliant Lady are very popular, including the additional paid dinner shows.

On Virgin Voyages Alaska they are offering some new events and activities as well as speakers. The Happenings Cast is hosting several new events that were very popular with the sailors. The Crack The Crab event was a game show tied into eating crab and it was a massive hit. I personally get quite nervous in games like that, despite how very low stakes it is, so I only observed, but the participants were very invested.

In the evenings while the ship sailed in the Alaska fjords, which is to say the end of port days, there was an outdoor event at The Dock at sunset. As hues of auburn dapple the gold washed sky, one of the Happenings Cast will tell a short story to the assembled crowd. It’s only about 10 minutes total, but then an interesting thing happened each time, the people stuck around. Nearly everyone who came each night, which was usually 75 or more people, gathered together with their blankets and just started talking with each other. It was a wonderful event. I can’t guarantee that will happen with any particular sailing, but it happened with mine.

Virgin Voyages Alaska had a new game for the Happenings cast to host called, Crak The Crab. It was a riot!

Virgin also had a member of the Tlingit tribe on the ship to teach guests about the traditional woodworking techniques of the tribe and share the history of the people. When we were at Hubbard glacier, Virgin brought a naturalist on the ship who spoke over the PA system about what we were seeing around us. They also had mobile drink carts serving coffee and hot chocolate (as well as more adult beverages) on deck 16 while we were at the glacier. Although those sorts of things are the expectation for any cruise that visits Alaska, they are new for Virgin, especially having someone talking on the PA. After all, the line is known for their approach to reduce announcements as much as possible. Virgin, for example, does not have the captain address the ship each morning while most other lines do.

Just like their musical performers, these two guests will change between sailings, and you’ll experience something different from me. The point of mentioning it here is to highlight that Virgin Voyages Alaska is doing things a little differently from their usual approach. There’s even a temporary Happenings Cast member, The Lumberjack. If you read my Alaskan excursion article, you’ll know how much I enjoy lumberjacks! He was only on for a couple days, until we reached Ketchikan, where he got off the ship. How much he’ll be back I don’t know, but it was fun while he was aboard (I just wish I got a picture with him, but there was considerable competition).

Successes

Virgin Voyages Alaska had some truly outstanding things that they do to make your time onboard their ship special. While every line does something a little different for Alaska, Virgin is one of the few adults only cruise lines in the world, so their clientele is slightly different.

What I haven’t mentioned yet in this article are the small touches that they put into their rooms. Each room was equipped with a very soft, plush, fleece blanket. Our Sea Terrace room had two, one each for Nichole and I. Of course they were a red color, but hued closer to maroon than Virgin’s signature scarlet. Not only were they warm enough to make for a cozy bed each night, but they also kept you toasty should you decide to spend time outside on your balcony, like enjoying the hammock, which is something I certainly did.

In the RockStar and Mega RockStar suites (which I didn’t pay for this trip but certainly have in the past), Virgin included not only the blankets but also a pair of Binoculars. The brand and model they chose is, and I swear I had no idea, the exact same ones that I recommended just a matter of weeks ago in my article on What to Pack for Alaska. I asked several suite guests what they thought of the binoculars and they had nothing but praise for them. It seems that my recommendation is a good one.

I wasn’t sure if Virgin Voyages Alaska would make an adaptation to their linens, but they did. There’s nothing amazing about these fleece blankets, but having them at all made a huge difference.

There’s other small touches that made a difference. During our time at Hubbard Glacier, Virgin had mobile hot chocolate and coffee carts on deck 16, which is where most people were observing the glacier. You could also have spiked those beverages if you wished. We also got a sneak preview of what, we confirmed with crew, Virgin is trying to do at Hubbard. They brought a small boat up to the Brilliant Lady for a film crew to get on. That was also a test to see if they could sell that as an excursion! Keep an eye out for that in the future because the camera crew said it was stunning.

Speaking of beverages, something that I hadn’t expected was the included alcohol on several different excursions we went on. It’s not that I have never had alcohol included with an excursion, there are many catamarans in the Caribbean who serve cheap rum drinks while you snorkel, it’s more that I wasn’t expecting it in Alaska and it wasn’t included in other cruise ships that booked them. The only reason that I know that is because when we went to the Lumberjack Show (which you should go to), the announcer specifically stated that guests from our ship were given drink tickets and that other lines weren’t. I can’t say if that will always be the case, but I can say that it’s a lot easier to throw in a free drink as a bonus for booking that excursion if the cruise line has no kids on it.

Some Failures

Not everything is perfect, though, not that I expect it to be but it should be mentioned regardless. Virgin Voyages Alaska had some shortcomings that did impact our trip.

At the top of the article, I mentioned Richard’s Rooftop, the suite guests’ exclusive area of the ship. People worried that it wouldn’t be used much in Alaska given that it’s an open air space and Alaska is, well, not the Caribbean. Since I wasn’t staying in a suite, I didn’t have access to this space but, I can look through the glass partition. What I saw was minimal use, which was what people predicted. I’m not sure what Virgin could do to correct that short of a complete redesign that I don’t think they want to do. The one thing that was in use in the Richard’s Rooftop area was the hot tubs, those remained popular.

The most significant shortcoming is the tender port of Juneau. For anyone who is unfamiliar with the term, a tender port is any port where you are not docked at a pier, but rather you are docked away from shore and need to board a smaller boat to get to shore. There are many places where this is the only way to visit, from small towns like Eastport Maine, to very popular places like Grand Cayman.

Juneau has quite a few shoreside docking places, but it also has many ships that come each day. If your ship is smaller or newer to the rotation, you’re likely going to experience Juneau as a tender port. Virgin’s ships are not small, nor are they particularly large for the cruise industry. They are new to Alaska, however, and that puts them fairly low in the pecking order, thus they are tendering people in.

I don’t know what Virgin Voyages Alaska has going wrong in Juneau with the tendering, but they really do need to sort that out.

The tender situation was rather chaotic for us. On every cruise, people with shore excursions will get priority to take the tender, often staged by groups, before anyone without an excursion will be taken to shore. Even with the grouping and scheduling, we didn’t get to shore until an hour after our tour was supposed to begin. This meant that we lost time on our excursion. We still went on the excursion because it was waiting for all of us from the ship, but we lost an hour. That meant that we didn’t get to whale watch and hike at Mendenhall glacier as much as we should have.

Problems with the tendering don’t seem to be limited to just our cruise either since, as I write this, there are reports coming in about similar issues happening at Juneau once again.

I can’t say for sure what the cause of the delay was, but something wasn’t right that day. Keep this in mind when booking things in Juneau. Also, to be clear, when I say people with an excursion get priority, what I mean is, people with an excursion booked through the cruise line get priority. If you booked an excursion on your own… you will have to wait in the standby line or book the first available slot once tender slot booking is opened up in the Virgin Voyages app. Realistically, if you book an excursion in the morning at Juneau and it isn’t through the cruise line, you aren’t going to make it. You shouldn’t book anything before, at the earliest, 1PM if you’re doing it on your own.

In fact, I would caution you from booking anything on your own in Juneau right now.

Most of the dishes on the Virgin Voyages Alaska sailing we did were excellent… not the Achiote Spiced Salmon from Pink Agave. Maybe skip this one.

That was the only major issue that we ran into, but there are some minor flubs that you should have a heads up about.

• The shows are very popular, so much Virgin is rumored to be bringing back ticketing for them. (That doesn’t mean that they will cost extra, it’s just to control crowd size and eliminate people just waiting in line.) We can’t confirm their plans as of writing, but this is a widespread rumor.
  
  For now, you should know that if you want to see a show, you’ll need to line up early; unless you are sailing as a RockStar, of course.
• When the Lumberjack is on, they aren’t on for very long. I can’t even say this is truly a flub, but Virgin didn’t make it completely clear that he is only on for a couple days of any cruise.
• Pink Agave’s Alaska menu item, the Achiote Spiced Salmon, isn’t great. I love salmon and cook it frequently; I’m no stranger to this fish. The approach here, with the combination of flavors and the cooking technique, just doesn’t work. I would avoid this one and get something else from the menu.

Conclusion

Many fans of Virgin Voyages worried that they would fumble Alaska. They said that the pools won’t be any good, that the ship wouldn’t be fun outside of balmy weather, that Virgin wasn’t designed as a line to sail in cold weather. I can confidently say that all those fears are overblown.

Virgin Voyages Alaska sufficiently altered their approach to sailing to meet the needs and desires of the area. There were many long time Virgins… wait… There were many returning Virgin guests we met on the ship that raved about how much fun they were having. I ended up socializing with people more than I usually do because folks were in a fantastic mood and having fun.

I love Skagway! The owners of the Red Onion put this sign out for our first visit and it’s perfect. I really do love that town.

Yes, Scarlet Night was a little more subdued given that the top deck dance party was moved inside and likely will be for much of the season. That change didn’t dampen people’s spirits, though, as all through Scarlet Night people were spotting whales off the side of the ship and it turned into a mix of dancing and nature watching. That’s not something that I’ve ever seen in the warm waters of the gulf.

I spent hours watching the scenery pass by, warmly wrapped in blankets, curled up in the hammock. There was delicious venison, cod, crab, salmon, and halibut, at every restaurant. The mood was bright and fun, as it always is, but there were opportunities to engage in culture and education that don’t typically happen on Virgin’s sailings.

At the end of the day, I’ve been to Alaska before, but I’ve never had such a good time as this.