The big smash hit of the summer is Christopher Nolan’s adaptation of the classic epic, The Odyssey. Admittedly, I never imagined that a nearly three hour retelling of one of the oldest written tales in human history would be the success that it is, but I love that it is. I’m lucky enough to have one of the few 70mm IMAX locations in the country not too far from me. Not that I’ve gotten to see it yet because showings keep selling out and are still sold out days ahead of time. The ancient Greek tale has gripped the nation, and much of the world with its legend of guilt, loss, and hope.
Homer’s two epic poems, The Odyssey and The Iliad, like much of Greek mythology, blur the lines between myth and reality. Stories such as Heracles or the Minotaur, often set fantastical, frequently impossible things within the places of the real world. If you too have been taken with Odyssey fever and discovered a fascination with Greek Mythology, let me tell you how to see the ancient Greek world in person.
Athens
In today’s world, the city of Athens has come to be the most visited spot for those fascinated by Greek history. That’s not surprising, given that it is the capital of Greece today and has a large port that cruise ships frequent. There’s also a decent international airport, making it an ideal location to vacation. Important for the topic of visiting ancient Greek sites is that Athens has continuously been a city for thousands of years. You can scarcely throw a rock without hitting a structure older than 500 years. Although genuine ruins of the ancient Greek world lie all around the city, and under it more often than not, the highlights to see here are among the most visited sites in the world.
The Parthenon at the Acropolis in Athens is a must when you visit Greece.
Most visible and famous is the Parthenon. Sitting above the rest of the Athens, on the Athenian Acropolis (a word which translates to mean the highest point of the city), the Parthenon is arguably the most recognizable feature of Greece culture and history. In its day, it was a temple to Athena, the goddess of wisdom and warfare, where the city takes its name from. The site also has one of my favorite museums anywhere in the world, the aptly named Acropolis Museum. The museum sits above one of the archeological sites at the acropolis and visitors can simply look down and see real excavations going on beneath their feet.
Another ancient place is the Agora, which is a marketplace. The sprawling Agora of Athens contains its own museum that documents the Athenian democracy, housed inside a reconstructed stoa (covered walkway) that dates to 150 BC, temples to the gods Ares, Hephaestus, Aphrodite, and Apollo, an odeon, a library, and the seat of the ancient Athenian government.
Perhaps obviously, there are many more sites in Athens beyond just these two that are connected with ancient Greece, much less other historic periods over the last 3000 years, but there are entire books dedicated to doing little more than listing things to see in Athens and we don’t have the space to do so here. However, I’ll mention a few of the more noteworthy.
Temple of Hephaestus in the Athens Agora
There’s the first modern Olympic stadium, the Panathenaic stadium, which houses the Olympic flame. Lycabettus Hill, which gives you amazing views of the city, has a bar to grab a drink at, and a conveniently placed church to apologize about the drinking at. Of course, you cannot visit Athens without visiting Plaka, a neighborhood just beneath the Acropolis filled with shops and restaurants for you to stop in as you wander the picturesque streets.
What’s the best way to get to Athens then? Since this is a modern metropolis, there’s all sorts of transportation that can get you here. Arriving by plane is very easy and their airport is smaller and simpler to navigate than many other cities. Hotels and vacation rentals are plentiful, so staying overnight isn’t a problem. Cruises, which often start in Athens and also frequently visit there, are another very easy way to visit the city. How long you want to stay in Athens specifically is the determining factor in what we would recommend.
Lycabettus Hill in Athens, Greece
If all you want to see is the Acropolis and maybe one or two other sites, you can do so in a day. It’ll be a busy day, but you can do it. This might fit best if you want to see as many places in Greece as possible, since vacations only last so long. If that’s what you’re looking to do, then a cruise that starts in Athens, which you should arrive at least 1 day before, might be the trick.
However, for longer stays focused on Athens and the surrounding areas, it may be better to connect with a tour group or arrange for a private tour for several days. Since Athens is so popular for travelers, there’s a booming industry of private drivers and tour guides that will work with you on planning a multi-day trip where they take you around to see the area’s sites. As I mentioned, there’s also pre-planned tours that go in a group and travel by bus through the city and to surrounding areas. These tours can be just a single day or even several days, stopping at multiple places in this part of Greece.
Thessaloniki & Mt Olympus
Greece’s second largest city is Thessaloniki. Although this city does not have as storied a history in ancient Greece as Athens does, it was founded in 315 BC, squarely in the Hellenistic period, and is directly connected with Alexander the Great. Most of the historic sites in the city itself relate to a much later period, that of the Byzantine Empire.
Thessaloniki Waterfront. Photo by Berthold Werner https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=71127147
The Byzantines are not a subject frequently taught in US schools, so don’t worry if you’re from there and not familiar. I can’t say what schools in other countries are like on the subject, but here’s a short primer. The Byzantines were the eastern half of the Roman Empire that stuck around for centuries after the collapse of Rome. While their capital was in Byzantium, also known as Constantinople, now know as Istanbul. You see, Istanbul was Constantinople, but now it’s Istanbul, not Constantinople. It’s been a long time gone, Constantinople and why they changed it I can’t say. Perhaps people just liked it better that way…
Now that I’ve cleared up the history of the capital, Thessaloniki was the “second city” of the empire, in comedy circles this would be like Chicago or Toronto. Ruins from both the Roman and Byzantine era are all over the city, notably the Arch and Rotunda of Galerius, the Palace of Galerius, and a massive Roman Forum. All of which you can visit and are right in the center of the town.
“But I’m here for Zeus, Athena, and Apollo!” You say! What do you care about some boring old Roman emperors? While Thessaloniki might not be as loaded up with the sort of Greek mythos you’re thinking of, it is a great place from which to visit the major site of Greek myths, Mount Olympus.
Yes, the Seat of the Gods, the place where Zeus and Dionysus threw some of the biggest intergalactic keggers the universe ever knew is just a short distance away from Thessaloniki. It was the first national park in Greece and part of the World Biosphere reserve. Mount Olympus has been the site of pilgrimage since at least 400 BC, and you can make that pilgrimage as well! There are tons of opportunities to go hike the ancient, divine stones of this mountain with guides who will tell you stories and myths that grew out of this amazing location.
Mt Olympus Photo By Cristo Vlahos – https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30394901
In addition, you can visit the ruins of Dion, which sits at the foot of Mount Olympus and was the site where Alexander the Great’s Kingdom of Macedonia had their largest shire to Zeus. It was the center of religious power for the Macedonians, and hosted large complexes of baths, shrines, walls, mosaics, and more. They even have a “hydraulis” housed in the museum, which is an ancient bronze pipe organ. The site is a center of power for a lot of Macedonian history, and Alexander himself made enormous sacrifices to Zeus before his ill-fated campaign to Asia.
The best way to get to Thessaloniki is typically to fly in. There are some cruises that stop in the city, but it isn’t a main stop. That means that getting a hotel, for a few nights is the best way to stay. There’s some options for vacation rentals, but they aren’t as plentiful as in Athens. Fortunately, tour groups, drivers, and guides are in no short supply here and they can get you to any of the places you’d like to visit without any hassle.
Thermopylae, Delphi, and Lamia
There is hardly a single Greek myth that doesn’t include a guest appearance of the Fates or Oracles. While Greece was littered with Oracles, Delphi was the biggest of them all. This was where, Apollo had his Pythia deliver their visions of the future, and steer the course of history. To ignore these readings would bring destruction.
When you visit Greece, you can go to Delphi where the Oracle was. This is the Athens Treasury at the site.
The Oracle of Delphi certainly gave the site, nestled into the mountains, a great deal of importance to the Ancient Greeks. However, Delphi’s location was considered to be the center of the world – literally. Its position was marked by an omphalos, a type or religious artifact made of stone. The omphalos is still there today, now moved to the protected space of the site’s beautiful museum to preserve it, although we don’t know if it’s original or not. The point is, that when you visit Delphi, you are visiting the center of the Grecian world.
The facilities the Greeks built around Delphi are substantial. The Oracle was a priestess of Apollo, chosen by the other priestesses of the temple and they all worked together to attend and maintain the temple and deliver the Oracle’s visions. To receive a vision from the Oracle, you had to make an offering to the temple of Apollo. This offering, a reasonable fee if you will, was levied to support the Oracle and the temple’s operations. It takes a lot to make some prophecies after all. The various city states kept treasuries at Delphi to make the payment for these visions easier and these vaults would house their tithes to the oracle in thanks for the victories she led them to. A sort of pay to win system I suppose.
Other than the Oracle, there are many more features in Delphi. A massive ancient theater affords visitors sweeping views of the valley below. There was a gymnasium, which is exactly what is sounds like, and a stadium for sporting events. The stadium is at the highest point of the Delphic ruins, which is a bit of a climb, and it is the most well preserved ancient stadium in Greece.
Nichole above the Odeon at Delphi.
In the same region as Delphi, sits Thermopylae. If you’ve seen the movie 300, you’ve heard of Thermopylae, or the “hot gates”. This is where the 300 Spartans, led by King Leonidas, fought to the last against the invading army of Xerxes, king of the Persians and his overwhelming hordes of deadly immortals. While this is lauded by ancient Greek fans, the reality is that the Spartans had many, many more soldiers than the 300, plus a whole fleet backing them up. Additionally, Xerxes led a multicultural empire that was widely regarded as one of the best places to live in the ancient world.
Although reality paints a very different picture than Mr. Snyder or Mr. Miller, the importance of Thermopylae is undeniable. While there aren’t a lot of ruins, this site is where battles have been fought for thousands of years due to its strategic location. It was a central pivot point in ancient history, not just for Greece, but the entire world, and you can still visit it today. Its hot springs are still active, and modern baths let you enjoy its mineral waters. You don’t even have to get kicked down a well to enjoy them!
Thermopylae Ho Springs By Fkerasar – https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1961603
While you can visit both these places from Athens and Thessaloniki, consider staying in nearby Lamia. It’s a truly ancient city, rivaling Athens in age, that sits in a highly strategic location above Thermopylae. It was possibly named after the daughter of Poseidon, though there is some debate around that. While it doesn’t boast the ruins and structures of Athens, it is a beautiful city with many museums and its own unique history.
The only way to get to Lamia, though, is by driving in from one of the larger cities I mentioned above. There are many places to stay, if you value independent travel, and there are many tours that you can sign up for if you like a group experience. Just like almost everywhere in Greece, there’s also private drivers and guides a plenty if you want to go a more personalized or small group route.
Greek Islands
You might be wondering, at this point, where are the islands? Greece is full of islands, and I definitely saw Odysseus riding around in a boat! Well, don’t worry, I have a few islands loaded with ruins, myths, and more for you!
If you’ve ever been called a cretin, don’t take it as an insult, Crete was the center of one of the largest, most important city states in the ancient world… I’m being told that those two words are not in any way related.
Ariel View Of Chania By dronepicr – https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=101700513
Anyway, Crete was the center of the Minoan civilization, one of the most technologically advanced places for its time, and Chania was one of its centers. The ancient Minoan palace of Knossos is very near Chania, and that site, specifically, is where we get the tale of the Minotaur from. Talk about being bull-headed, am I right!
In addition to Knossos, Chania was also the seat of the Kydonians, who earn a mention in the Odyssey itself. Because of its distance from mainland Greece, Chania is a wonderful place to visit for several days, or via cruise.
Cape Drastis, Corfu, By Hagai Agmon-Snir https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=121317537
Another great island of Greek history and myth is Corfu on the western side of Greece. Famed for its blue waters, there have been countless battles and naval conquests held here throughout history. Sites to visit include Kardaki temple from 500 BC, the temples of Artemis and Hera, as well as the tomb of Menecrates. The tomb is one of only two sites, the other in Rhodes, of this type that we have found. He seemed to have been an ancient ambassador who was lost at sea and includes a stunning ancient lion sculpture.
If you visit Greece, Rhodes is worth your time. This is a view of the Medieval city part of Rhodes. By Bernard Gagnon – https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25041428
Speaking of Rhodes, it was the center of trade in the whole region. If it wasn’t an island, we may have said that all roads lead to Rhodes, and that wealth and influence is how they were able to build the Colossus of Rhodes. If you were hoping to see this wonder of the ancient world, however, you’re just a couple of years too late, as it was destroyed in 226 BC in an earthquake and, abiding by the Oracle of Delphi, it was never reconstructed. That doesn’t mean you can’t get your ancient god fix in Rhodes, for the Temple of Pythian Apollo, ancient theaters and stadiums, and the Acropolis of Rhodes are all scattered around the island. Additionally, impressive medieval castles, such as the Palace of the Grand Master where the Knights Hospitaller were headquartered, and where the Colossus was said to have stood.
Santorini, By Skigo Wedding Stories – https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=159090912
Finally, there is Santorini where, because of its volcanic nature, there isn’t a lot to go off. However, we do know the islands were home to the great Minoan city of Akrotiri, and some of its ruins and murals remain. There are three-story buildings, walls, streets, and some of the oldest examples of plumbing we have, all from 3000 to 2000 BC. Unfortunately, especially for the Akrotirians, most of the city was destroyed in an eruption which lasted for weeks and was so large it caused a tsunami. The catastrophic valcano is what gave Santorini the shape it has today, when at least 25 cubic kilometers of stone, ash, and magma, were thrown into the atmosphere. It’s easy to see why Akrotiri, and thus Santorini, is often held up as one of the most likely locations of the mythological city of Atlantis that Plato described over a thousand years after the eruption.
Beyond the Myth
So, you might have noticed at this point that I’ve listed a lot of amazing, interesting locations with ancient ruins, mythologies, and stunning nature. But you might also be thinking, “Odysseus didn’t go there”. And yes, we started this talking about the Odyssey, but the thing is, Troy is in Turkey, and most of the places that are mentioned on his journey are thought to be in Sicily, and beyond that, they’re mostly made up.
Yes, Scylla is a real place in Sicily, and Ithaca is a place in Greece, but the island of the lotus eaters, Polyphemus, or giant cannibals, these don’t seem to have any real place attached to them. Just like all myths, they are there to transmit ideas, morals, and stories. While all the myths of ancient Greece are enjoyable, being in the real places where they were created, shared, and believed helps understand them on a whole different level. So if you loved the Odyssey, consider a visit to Greece because nothing compares seeing to the genuine thing with your own eyes. Maybe that’s why the Greeks are so mad at the British museum?
